Lo Sciliar (Schlern) is one of South Tyrol’s most iconic mountains. Beloved by hikers of all ages, it has long attracted a niche community of traditional climbers, primarily German-speaking. Hans Steger and Paula Wiesinger —pioneers of the Dolomites’ vertical scene in the 1920s-30s— fell so deeply for this mountain and its alpine pastures that they moved here to open one of the region’s first luxury hotels.
Burgstallkante, Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.
While the most-climbed route on nearby Punta Santner is the 1904 Glanvell on its North Ridge, Monte Castello’s crown jewel is its northeast spur, known as Burgstallkante. First ascended in 1922 by Waldner and Wairinger, it offers immensely satisfying climbing: steep moves on superb rock in a wild setting. Mauro Bernardi’s description in his guidebook Climbs on Catinaccio is precise and reliable. Like the Santner Ridge, it demands a long approach (by modern standards) up a large gully. To reach Burgstallkante’s start, follow this gully briefly before branching left. Traverse it for 30+ minutes—sometimes cairn-marked, with exposed sections—to a clearing left of a massive boulder blocking the channel. Allow 2 hours total for the approach.
The adventure begins immediately: early pitches are easy (3rd–4th class YDS), climbed partly roped, partly simul-climbing. Cemented ring anchors mix with bolted stations featuring slings. After 250m, steep climbing begins on exceptional rock peppered with pockets and huecos. Pitons and occasional slings protect harder moves; grassy patches pose little issue. Sustained 5.2–5.6 YDS climbing delivers tremendous fun.
IThe bicycle bell on the route’s crux (5.6 YDS). Burgstallkante – Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.
What captivated me most? A bicycle bell (Fahrradklingel) mounted on the crux move just pitches from the top. A local climber once explained me it was installed by the same person who placed the telephone on Santner Ridge! The crux is a steep overhang on the ridge (5.6 YDS). Holds are good and friendly, but inexperienced climbers may struggle to weight their feet—risking a “spinning pedals” effect. Hence the bell: ring it to signal your belayer to take rope tension!
The final easy pitch leads directly to summit meadows, perfect for resting amid breathtaking views. A fast, experienced team can cover the 500m vertical from start to finish in under 4 hours. Note: I wouldn’t recommend leading this if you’re at your limit grade-wise or lack experience—inefficiency risks significant delays.
Burgstallkante exit – Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.
On descent, head to Rifugio Bolzano (Schlernhaus) or take directly the Gamsteig—a stunning, partly-equipped trail for expert hikers, recently renovated (summer 2022)—down to Schlernbödele Hütte. There, canederli (bread dumplings), Spiegeleier (fried eggs), and Kaiserschmarren (shredded pancake) are divine. With a full belly and a grappa, the hike down to Bagni di Razzes car park feels blissfully smooth.
.
