The Schlern (Sciliar) is undoubtedly an icon of South Tyrol. This plateau massif – flanked by the spires of Punta Euringer and Punta Santner – towers above the green pastures of Alpe di Siusi, one of the South Tyrolean Dolomites’ most authentic corners despite nearby ski resorts. Summer through early November, it’s a hiker’s paradise; in winter, families flock to its sunny, tranquil slopes.

Punta Santner rises above Siusi village: a broad yellow-gray wall over forests and Hauenstein Castle, tapering to a sharp summit ridge. Years ago, a climber from Castelrotto first told me about its North Ridge (Spigolo Nord) – first climbed in 1904 by Viktor Von Glanvell and Karl Domenigg – with legendary enthusiasm.

Punta Santner, North Ridge (Von Glanvell route).Ph credits genusslandsuedtirol.it

This is a major undertaking: 1,200m vertical gain from Hotel Bagni di Razzes. The descent is no stroll – an endless series of rappels, re-equipped after a 2011 rockfall from Punta Euringer. Mostly frequented by German-speaking locals and solitude-seekers, the Von Glanvell route (max 5.4 YDS) shouldn’t be underestimated: technical climbing time rivals descent time. Stable weather and a dawn start are essential for this long, rewarding journey.

Punta Santner, North Ridge. On the initial easy pitches.

From Bagni di Razzes parking, reach Schlernbödele Hut in 50 minutes (steep trail). Behind it, the faint path to the ridge disappears briefly in tall grass – a fittingly “earned” approach. Cross two gravel gullies, then traverse woods to the base: a boulder with a bolt and yellow circle marks the start. Rock requires care on the initial 5.2-5.4 YDS pitches (gritty debris). Route-finding is logical, but the wall’s scale can disorient beginners – belay bolts hide like “needles in a haystack.” Wax stains from Herz Jesu fires adorn most ledges (I spotted wax before bolts at the third stance!).

Gear Notes:

  • Approach shoes suffice (leave rock shoes at home if you’re comfortable on those grades).

  • 60m rope + 6-8 quickdraws, slings, and cams (#0.3-1) are more than enough.

Punta Santner, North Ridge. The “Telefon Wandl” – vintage phone left of the arete at the crux pitch.

After a gravel patch at pitch 4, the line flows unmistakably. Pitons/slings protect key sections. In 7-8 pitches, you gain the true ridge, belaying at a huge thread with a suspended grove beyond. Rock quality improves, leading to the crux: “Telefon Wandl” (5.6 YDS), where the arete steepens for 10m. A vintage phone hangs left – installed by local climbers (like Burgstallkante’s bicycle bell!).

Punta Santner, North Ridge. Crux “Telefon Wandl” pitch.

Three easier pitches lead to the summit. Views are breathtaking – Santner is the Dolomites’ westernmost peak. We summited in 3 hours (before noon!). After a snack, brace for the 3-hour descent via rappels. Note: Mauro Bernardi’s guidebook contains errors; use this detailed PDF instead.

Rappelling down the Löwenmaul. 

Descent Beta (60m rope sufficient):

  1. From summit (rember to sign the log book!), traverse toward Schlern, then descend to first anchor.

  2. 1-2 rappels to gravel ledge. Follow carved arrows toward Compaccio.

  3. 7-8 rappels (mostly sheltered from rockfall) to a suspended scree field.

  4. Follow cairns: zigzag down, then traverse right toward Euringer Tower.

  5. Rappel from new bolted ring into Santner-Euringer gully.

  6. Traverse to Löwenmaul anchor, rappel into next gully (direction: Schlern).

  7. Scramble (3rd-4th class) to mugo pines anchor.

  8. 3 final rappels down steep chute to scree. One short rappel or scramble (4th class) leads back to the approach trail.

On top of Punta Santner. Nord Ridge.

Avoid summiting late – this descent demands time and focus. Only with a beer at Schlernbödele Hut you can finally relax, savoring the silence after a day of old-school alpinism on one of the Dolomites’ crown jewels.