A very important guidebook was published in 1970, it was a selection of the 100 most significant extreme climbs in the Alps. Lorenzo Trento, a dear friend, gave me his copy a few years ago, which I jealously keep safely in my bookshelf and occasionally pick up and read and browse. The north ridge of Agner is among the selected…
Summer 2022 has been so amazing! Definitely very hot, but with an incredible series of beautiful days that I almost lost count of all the climbs I’ve done in the mountains together with @GioPilli (follow him on Instagram!) and others. Among our adventures some deserve to be remembered with a few words and images. Pizzo Badile and the Cassin route…
If you’re looking for a very nice yet not so popular climb on a 4000 meter peak in the Alps, the Dent d’Herens must be on your wishlist. You already get the taste of a different adventure while driving the very long Val Pelline, north of Aosta, everything is calm there and the presence of humans is hardly noticed in…
Climbing with kids in the Dolomites. Cinque Torri, the Thumb on Sassolungo and Torre Firenze, Val Gardena.
How many limits do we put or do we think kids have? In the mountain, but not only there, I think it is all related to what us adults transmit to them (say fear for example), in addition to their obvious physiological limits of course. If I think about outdoor activities, I have always given my daughters the chance to…
Finalmente mi siedo davanti al computer, ho preso “coraggio” e voglia di scrivere qualcosa sull’inverno più incredibile che io abbia mai vissuto. E’ stata davvero una stagione che io definirei del “più”. Partiti col fondo più perfetto che abbiamo mai visto negli ultimi anni, entusiasti al massimo perché la stagione alle porte era garantita. Il vento entrato l’8 di dicembre…
by Giovanni Pillitteri. “First Ascent” “At times, sitting under big climbing walls, I see – along the pillars and the cracks, between ledges and ridges – an imaginary line that, sinuously, invites me toward the top. A line has appeared and I follow it with confidence. It is not about the pride of being the first: it is the satisfaction…
Big challenges are the most appealing these days. In the outdoor market, these last years lots of guides have been promoting the climb of Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger in just one trip. Generally this takes a good 10-12 days, with some days of rest here and there, but most important, you must have a solid weather window AND good…
The Forcella Marmolada backcountry ski traverse is one of my favorite itineraries in the Dolomites, when the winter days are getting longer and the temperatures rising up. The “purists” start right from the bottom of the basket lift in Passo Fedaia, ottherwise if you take the cable cars from Malga Ciapela you only need to skin and climb for less…
Vipiteno is a lovely mountain village in South Tyrol not far from the Brenner Pass, and it’s an excellent “base camp” for ski touring enthusiasts. The nearby valleys of Racines, Ridanna and Fleres offer beautiful itineraries for all kind of level, steepness and vertical climbs, from 700 mt way over the 1400 meters uphill tough day tours. The peaks are…
We’re getting close to the end of January, winter in the Dolomites has only been felt so far, with two weeks of crazy north wind and some pretty cold days. Groomers don’t have to worry though, as Dolomiti Superski has a phenomenal snow making system and all the pistes have been opened since Christmas time on all the resorts. Skitouring…
Climbing Miriam on Cinque Torri, Micheluzzi+Buhl on Piz Ciavazes, and Spigolo Giallo on Tre Cime di Lavaredo
As I came back home from my guiding week in the Western Alps, I met in Cortina Robert and Aika Yoshida, an incredible talented climber who just won the gold medal in Innsbruck during the Paraclimbing World Cup. Our program was to climb some classic multi pitch routes in the Dolomites, with comfortable, easy approach and descent. The good and…