The Matterhorn is one of the most famous peaks in the Alps. Its pyramid shape is an icon everyone knows and recognizes (it’s even the logo of a world-famous chocolate brand, or now we should say it used to). Anyone who has been to Cervinia or Zermatt admires it and is impressed; many dream of climbing it.
The two routes I propose—the Lion Ridge (Cresta del Leone) and the Hörnli Ridge—are also the most frequented. Both require excellent physical preparation, acclimatization, and some mountaineering experience, which many refine during a 5- or 6-day program.
Those planning a “hit-and-run” ascent of the Matterhorn by waiting for two days of perfect weather must be in top shape and up to the challenge to avoid bitter disappointment. A word to the wise…
CLIMBING THE MATTERHORN VIA THE LION RIDGE
Period: Two days, late July to September
Cost: €1,600 for one person. Includes guide service only; all other expenses (transport, lifts, accommodation, extras), including the guide’s costs, are covered by the participant.
The Jordan Ladder. Lion Ridge, Matterhorn.
The Lion Ridge is the Italian normal route to the Matterhorn summit and is more demanding than the Hörnli Ridge. It’s very popular when in prime conditions— expecially because there’s a bivouac quite cheap compare to the Hornli Hut (this requires a heavier pack as you need to bring your water and food). Hiring a mountain guide familiar with the route is advisable, as they can efficiently manage bottlenecks at key points during ascent and descent.
Technically, difficulties do not exceed Grade III. Practically, the climb is strenuous due to numerous fixed ropes—sometimes vertical—that aid progression. The approach day to the Carrel Hut already includes a key section: the fixed rope of the “Cheminée,” a test to gauge readiness for the climb.
The summit day involves less elevation gain than the Hörnli route but traverses technical terrain requiring swift, confident movement. The ridge is in good condition when snow and ice are minimal from the Pic Tyndall to the summit, as these significantly slow progress. A typical roped party takes 3–4 hours on Day 1 from the Duca degli Abruzzi Hut to the Carrel Hut, and 4 hours to ascend + 6–7 hours to descend to the valley hut on summit day. For very fit teams it’s also possible to consider a comfortable overnight at the Rifugio Oriondé and start a long journey up and down the mountain with an early start.
CLIMBING THE MATTERHORN VIA THE HÖRNLI RIDGE
Period: One day, July to September
Cost: €1,600 for one person. Includes guide service only; all other expenses (transport, lifts, accommodation, extras), including the guide’s costs, are covered by the participant.
Hörnli Ridge, Matterhorn.
The Hörnli Ridge is the Swiss normal route and the easiest route to the Matterhorn’s summit. It’s a magnificent, well-rounded climb with solid rock cleaned by traffic—if you stay on route. Straying immediately leads to treacherous, loose terrain. It can be crowded in prime conditions, prudent climbers hire a guide due to the complexity of rope management on such a mountain.
Technical difficulties never exceed Grade III (with just a few meters of true Grade III). Practically, it’s demanding: over 1,200m of elevation gain on technical terrain requiring efficient, swift movement. An ascent pace of 450m/hour is essential, paired with good acclimatization.
The Hörnli Ridge is primarily rock, with steep snow/ice sections near the top. Guides take only one client due to sustained exposure, length, and the need for careful downclimbing. While independent teams of three exist, a two-person team maximizes summit chances and safety.
Success odds are highest when the ridge is dry (snow-free) below the Shoulder (where the crux difficulties lie). Snowfall or heavy snow below the Solvay Hut drastically reduces chances: crampons on rock slow progress, and timing becomes critical. The Hörnli Ridge usually firms up earlier than the Italian route.
Online reports vary, but 8–9 hours round-trip is reasonable. Total times >9 hours are potentially dangerous: fatigue increases risk, especially during descent (when most accidents occur). If you reach the Solvay Hut in ~2 hours (maintaining 400m/h), you’re on track. Nearing 3 hours? Turn back—don’t push for the summit.
MATTERHORN TRAVERSE: ITALIAN SIDE TO SWISS SIDE
PERIOD: 2 days, July to September
COST: €1,900 for one person. Includes guide service only (for 2 days); all other expenses (transport, lifts, accommodation, extras), including the guide’s costs, are covered by the participant.
Along the exposed ridge in between the Italian and Swiss summits. Matterhorn.
Ascending the Lion Ridge and descending the Hörnli Ridge is the most elegant and complete way to climb the Matterhorn. The overall effort is comparable to an Italian-side round-trip, though descending the Hörnli is more tiring due to longer downclimbing sections and intense focus. However, this traverse is deeply satisfying: you ascend the mountain’s steepest, most spectacular face and descend another piece of alpinism history.
The traverse typically takes two days, but an extra night at Schwarzsee or the Rifugio Guide del Cervino may be needed if you miss the last Testa Grigia cable car to the valley.
