It’s November, and this year the season is once again gifting us beautiful days for climbing—more so in the lower valley than near home. Last weekend, I headed down to Arco with a couple of friends to climb Monte Colodri yet again. It never loses its charm; from the pool parking lot, it always commands respect and inspires awe, just as it did the first time I saw it with my first climbing partner, Alessandro.

Sommadossi, Monte Colodri. Giovanni on the striking detached blade of pitch 2.

A weekend blending classic and modern routes—I think that’s the right way to describe it. On Saturday, Giovanni and I climbed a true Colodri classic: Brunello Sommadossi, opened in 1975 and already considered highly “polished” by the late 80s. A series of athletic cracks and dihedrals deliver thrilling, physical climbing. I’d climbed the ramp dihedral on pitch 1 last year—its extreme polish in several sections is no surprise—so knowing what to expect was a huge advantage. This time, I reached the small grove 50 meters above the start in just minutes, making this burly opening feel almost “painless.” Now, I won’t claim the rest of the route isn’t polished, but in climbing shoes, an experienced eye spots far more footholds, keeping the ascent fun and less slippery. The crux pitch features a vertical, intermittently overhanging cracked slab—grit your teeth, don’t blow the hand or foot placements, but it’s over in just a few meters. Protection is abundant (pitons and ring bolts), with a couple of iron bars for emergency clipping.
Sommadossi can be climbed in 8 pitches. Belays are comfortable, half equipped with bolted rings and half on trees. Pitons and bolts line the route; bold climbers might skip cams entirely except for the penultimate pitch—a beautiful IV-grade cracked dihedral with no fixed gear. Still, I recommend bringing cams up to #2. A single 60m rope is more than enough, along with about 10 quickdraws. A competent team can summit Colodri in under 4 hours.Download my Sommadossi topo here.

Sommadossi, Monte Colodri. The stunning dihedral on pitch 6.

L’Incompiuta plays a different tune—a true masterpiece by Heinz Grill, Ivo Rabanser, and team. Here, cams up to #3 are essential. Opened in 2012, this brilliant line links existing variations with new pitches. The start tests you with a hard slab move beneath a roof. On pitch 2, we opted for the “Groaz” variation (VI) of Via Katia—a gray, nearly abandoned but now-cleaned crack that flows logically with the route’s rhythm and difficulty.

Via L’Incompiuta, Colodri. Antonello on pitch 3.

From pitch 3 onward, athletic dihedrals and cracks demand commitment, solid technique, and fast gear placement. Footing is sparse; solid jamming skills ease the climb. Rock quality is superb overall, with only short sections requiring extra care. Pitches 3 and 6 may be wet—check conditions from the parking lot.

L’Incompiuta, Colodri.

Online opinions vary on L’Incompiuta’s difficulty, grades, and time. We all agree it’s well-protectable, so the R4 rating in Diego Filippi’s guidebook feels exaggerated. Some suggest two sets of cams—overkill in my view. One full set up to #3 suffices, but prepare for thoughtful placements: the limestone is often highly sculpted inside the cracks. First-ascent reports cite sustained VI+ with VII sections; Rabanser’s description on Bergsteigen.com aligns closely. Orme Verticali’s topo felt soft—maybe they had a golden day! Time estimates range from 3–4 hours to 6–7. Confusing, right?

What I can keep saying is: L’Incompiuta is serious business. Expect sustained, pumpy VI+ climbing. Fixed gear is mostly traditional pitons (artfully placed by Ivo Rabanser & friends), with bolts only at belays. Compared to similar Dolomites routes (e.g., Palfrader dihedral on Monte Specie), it’s harder, more strenuous, and less equipped—though the rock is equally beautiful. Bring 10–11 quickdraws, a few slings, cams up to #3, medium size nuts (I rarely carry them, but they’d help here), and a 60m rope. 5–6 hours should suffice. Download my L’Incompiuta topo here

Via L’Incompiuta, Colodri.

Last tip: if you start early, wait for the sun to hit the wall. At 8am, the air is still cold, and our packs felt heavy with too warm layers. We’ll remember that next time.