Climbing in the Sassolungo group always has a taste of adventure, regardless of the difficulty grade. I think of the Pichl and the Spigolo del Pollice, which, despite their low difficulty, are satisfying climbs. The Comici on Salame was one of the great routes I did with Gio Pilli in the summer of 2021; signing the climbing logbook at Rifugio Vicenza before descending to the valley is a ritual. Behind the hut, the East Face of the Prima Torre del Sassopiatto catches the alpinist’s eye, and in the logbook, there were some repeats of the 1936 Soldà Bertoldi route.

Climbing the Soldà Bertoldi route on the Prima Torre del Sassopiatto.

This route is well-described in Ivo Rabanser’s book “Vie e Vicende in Dolomiti”. The fourth ascent was likely by “Checco e Granchio”, strong young mountain guides from Padova (nowadays very good friends of mine) from the 80s-90s who frequented Rifugio Vicenza and the surrounding walls a lot during the early 1980s summers – apparently, the hut keeper’s daughter was very pretty! According to Rabanser’s description, the Soldà on the Prima Torre del Sassopiatto is one of the most beautiful and elegant routes in the group, definitely interesting and worth repeating. However, the classic difficulties up to grade VI shouldn’t be misleading; the route is demanding and requires solid experience, I’d even say good mental fortitude. Rabanser’s description is generally accurate, although along the route, you find a few more pitons than his report mentions, plus an intermediate belay on the third pitch. With a set of cams up to #2, a handful of quickdraws, and slings, you’re set. All the belays are equipped with good pitons and slings. The route description is also in one of Mauro Bernardi’s volumes (the second pitch follows a somewhat different line than Rabanser’s description). Personally, I don’t think it belongs in his guidebooks series because it’s much more demanding than the other routes, and its commitment level doesn’t seem clearly emphasized.

Climbing the Soldà Bertoldi route on the Prima Torre del Sassopiatto.

The first pitch, with difficulties modest by modern standards (V V+ ~ 5.7-5.8 YDS), defines the character and commitment of the climb right away. Steep and cold rock, solid but not very protectable. You need to read the rock well to know where to traverse and where to climb up. You must move cautiously and focusedly until you reach two old pitons connected by a worn sling and a rusty rappel carabiner. You can catch your breath there; the belay is just a bit higher.

Climbing the Soldà Bertoldi route on the Prima Torre del Sassopiatto.

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The second pitch gets demanding again immediately, then the traverse to the right is exposed but not difficult. The third pitch is easier, long, and requires route-finding. The next two pitches are still easy but poorly or not at all protectable; the rock is good but you climb carefully throughout. The key pitch on the yellow section, described as delicate, is actually exhilarating, with big holds on very beautiful rock. The following pitches are more solid and always elegant, seeking the logical line along a band of grey-yellow rock. Before the final ledges, there’s still a short chimney that appears unstable but presents no major difficulties.

With Antonello, we reached the summit 4 hours after starting. The descent begins just a few steps from the exit with a short rappel. I’m happy because this time we can descend quickly unroped, and within minutes, we’re already at the next rappel station. The last rappel is almost speleological – 50 meters into the void, skirting a huge boulder holding back all the debris in the gully. Truly impressive.

Back at the hut, we ask for the Climbs Logbook and they immediately recognize our clothes, which had added colour to the East Face of Torre del Sassopiatto. The beers arrived, along with the ritual grappas – the hospitality of the house. The repeats of the Soldà this year are just a handful compared to those of the Comici on Salame. Energized by the drinks, one chat leads to another, and the climb up the steep trail back to the Demetz cable car station (the white coffins as I use to call them!) was a nice, quick walk. On the way up, it’s best to take one of the first rides; otherwise, you risk missing the lift on the way back!