Despite being pretty far from home, I always like to go climbing on the Odle massif. Its north walls, the ones facing the Funes valley (Reinhold Messner native land) are the most photographed and popular, but not for the climbers as the climbing routes are very demanding and mostly on poor rock; on the other side, where the sun shines, the rock is generally solid and perfect for climbing, and you have lots of climbing routes where beginners and not so experienced climbers can have a lot of fun.
If you are looking for a beautiful, easy climb, even a first rock experience in a spectacular setting, you can’t miss the normal route to the top of Little Fermeda, the first Odle summit from the West side. You can approach to the route both from the Col Raiser top station and Seceda top station, I usually prefer this second option because the vertical gain isn’t that much, just 300-400 meters in total (I’m lazy every now and then, I know), but most of all because even the approach is a great adventure. Once you leave the hikers path at Pana Notch, after ten minutes hike you will find yourself facing a steep short wall graded 3, very exposed onto the Odle North faces, which might discourage even the braves. This section is in my opinion the key pitcg of the normal route to the Little Fermeda, it’s almost like test pitch. You make it, you climb the route.
The following “hike” before start the rock climb, it’s spectacular, very exposed along steep meadows, and it should not be underestimated. The track is covered by high grass that early in the morning may be insidious, a safe walk is required as no mistakes are allowed (“nose over toes” I always tell to the people). I would say that once you reach the start of the climb, things can’t get easier. The climb from here is pleasant, some slings in situ show you the itinerary to follow, you’ll get some nice short steep walls and exposed traverses, then a short chimney leads to the last section, always exposed, and finallu to the top. The view from up here is stunning, from west to north you’ll see all high peaks in between Italy and Austria, on the south you have the Dolomites with Sella group and Sassolungo very close. You will follow the same way down, and you will go through the very first key pitch with a short rappel.
Be aware that you will never queue up around here, we were there on Ferragosto, the busiest day of the summer season, and we just spent few words with just one team.