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Finally I found the time to update my blog page! Gimme a minute to go back with my mind in June, lots of adventures have happened so far. To be honest, after my back injury in April, I was almost ready to lose the summer season, but surprisingly I managed to get back on my feet in a very short time (thank God!). My fitness in June was what it was, I only had the chance to go cragging a bunch of times to see if everything was working well, then a hiking week in the Dolomites with a group of nice ladies from Singapore, and it was about time to give it ago to a multi pitch climb.
I love the classic climbs in the Dolomites, there was still the Dibona on the west face of the Roda di Vael, the first climbing route on the “Red wall” at the Costalunga Pass in Val di Fassa (I would say it’s more yellow than red…but this is how the Germans call it). For me it was the third climb on that wall, after “Moulin Rouge” with Alessio Roverato 10 years and some bigger guns ago, and the Eisenstecken from my IFMGA rock climbing exam, along with Nicola De Gasparis. Good times!
Talking of this amazing line of Angelo Dibona, I tell you that it was hard! Because it’s kinda difficult, period. I don’t know, maybe I can blame the cold temperature and my frozen hands, or I might just say to myself it was the first route of the season …Anyhow the grade V of some pitches suggested on the guidebook of Mauro Bernardi “Climbing in the Catinaccio mountain range” (someone of the old wiseasses say it’s more likely a mere IV +) has to be taken seriously in my personal opinion. The crack before the key pitch will definitely wake you up, and the following chimney might prove you psychologically. Smooth rock, one or two pins here and there, luckily I had a big cam with me that day (a BD camalot #3) that I jealously dragged it up as much as I could while going up. You need to have a pretty good technique of chimneys climb, which is not very popular nor common these days. If we really want to make a comparison of it with the two key pitches in the chimney of the Pichl on the North face of Sassolungo (which I climbed for the first time in July), well there is no comparison. The Dibona is much more demanding. A word to the wise…
Having said that, don’t think it’s better to climb somewhere else, the Dibona on Roda di Vael is very recommended, because it is yet another example of the climbing skills reached over 100 years ago by a Master like Angelo Dibona. This route is very beautiful, you need to be careful on the first three pitches as the rock is very chossy, expecially if there are other climbing teams below you. It is the only part where the rock is not so good. On the second part the pitches are steep, always exposed and never obvious. Bring a small rack of cams up to #3 Camalot and a great chimney technique otherwise some pitches will be a pain in the neck!
High five to Giovanni, you always manage to follow my rope, always.