The other day, while approaching the start of the normal route on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo, I once again looked up at that yellow shield of rock split diagonally by a crack. A subtle line on an overhanging wall—likely not the most solid—where several modern high-difficulty routes (with or without bolts) have emerged in recent years. The classic line, powerful and imposing, follows that very crack. It was first climbed in 1955: the “Egger-Sauscheck”. The same Toni Egger who, in 1959, vanished with his camera during the legendary ascent of Cerro Torre with Cesare Maestri.

I owe thanks to my friend and colleague, Mauro Valmassoi, who reminded me of my own ascent of the Egger route on Cima Piccola with GioPilli in the summer of 2021. Had I called him back then for advice—him, who’s climbed it 24 times!—I’d have saved some trouble. I even returned home with a fascinating anecdote: that the Egger-Sauscheck on Cima Piccola was essentially solved up to the roofs (the crux) by a young Alziro Molin. Then Francesco Mazzetta, keeper of Rifugio Lavaredo, let slip the details to Toni Egger—one of the era’s star climbers—prompting him to rush and finish the route, claiming the glory.

But let’s take things in order.

Egger-Sauscheck, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo. The iconic photo showing Hans Kammerlander soloing the route in 1978, taken from his book Descent to Success.

I recall that the first time I heard about the Egger route on Cima Piccola was while reading Hans Kammerlander’s book “Descent to Success”, where he describes his 1978 free solo ascent – accidentally witnessed by a German climber observing from Cima Grande.

Over subsequent years, especially after becoming a mountain guide, the information I gathered about the route wasn’t encouraging. I remember a Facebook post where a guide, after climbing the first pitches, declared: “It’s all rotten, choss – we rappelled off.” Among the dissuasive opinions, the most memorable came from fellow guides in Sesto. Some agreed that if you knock on the big hollow flake up high, it resonates like a bell… with no telling how much longer it might hold.

Now, a sensible person would abandon the idea entirely. Yet these very details fueled my determination to see it firsthand. As Jean, one of my longtime clients, says: I always recruit “my victims” for these experiments—and none suited better than the legendary GioPilli, who’d also nurtured curiosity about this route over the years.

Don’t mistake this for recklessness—I researched meticulously. Two key factors convinced me:

  1. A German colleague’s online report detailing his repeat (linking to a Bergsteigen route description).

  2. Simon Gietl’s recent free solo repeat during filming for the Hans Kammerlander documentary.
    I even messaged Simon, whose reply was: “If your guests enjoy alpine climbing, they’ll have a blast.”

Critically, Mauro Bernardi’s “bible” (definitive guidebook for the area of Cortina d’Ampezzo and Tre Cime di Lavaredo) includes an accurate Egger description: “Pitons where needed, bolted anchors.” All reassuring intel!

Thus, July 2021 arrived – a flawless morning. We approached the objective leisurely, certain no competitors awaited us at the base.

Egger-Sauscheck, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo. The pitch of the cracked dihedral beneath the roof.

The first pitch follows an easy gray ramp – a fitting welcome to this adventure. Rock quality is good, but protection opportunities are nearly absent. The second pitch is the crux. To reach the demanding horizontal crack, you traverse unsettling rock. The free-climbing section isn’t extreme (UIAA VI+/VII- or  5.9 /5.10a), well protected with pitons, but requires serious self-control to avoid grabbing draws and rest. The next couple pitches feature easier climbing (UIAA III-IV ? YDS 5.4-5.6) on solid rock, they lead to the base of the cracked dihedral – often wet and capped by a roof. This is a beautiful, alpine-style pitch: well-protected, not difficult (UIAA V+ or 5.7), with surprisingly solid rock despite photos suggesting a ‘house of cards.’ This ends at the infamous yellow flake.
Move carefully here. Though cleaned by repeats, this pitch requires caution on a few meters below the belay – a small past rockfall zone.

Egger-Sauscheck. Climbing the iconic yellow flake. GioPilli below the delicate section.

I recall the pitch after the flake as a slightly grumpy off-width crack / chimney. Oh yes – plastered in bird guano (I hate that!), and a family of choughs resented our intrusion… we were unwelcome guests. Before the final easing, a perfect chimney demands technique (a long piton helps for pulling through in case you need to aid). We took the outside variation; I recall an Instagram video of a French team squeezing through the ‘black hole’ beneath the belay.

Cima Piccola. Zsigmondy Chimney (left), original Innerkofler Chimney (right).

Three easier pitches (up to UIAA V or 5.6) on excellent rock lead below the sub-summit. Years prior with GioPilli (after the Spigolo Giallo route), we’d started the rappels here. This time, we continued – I wanted the true summit and for Gio to revisit the ‘Zigulì Chimney’ (his nickname for Zsigmondy), which had shattered him psychologically on his first ascent together via the Normal Route.”

GioPilli on the Zsigmondy Chimney.

What to add? I’m slightly disappointed the flake didn’t ring like a bell – but the route exceeded expectations. I loved its adventurous alpine character versus the Spigolo Giallo. Difficulties are comparable (UIAA VII- max / YDS 5.10a), making it a worthy alternative when crowded (though not a ‘pre-packaged’ or easy climb). Belays are well-equipped (bolts/pitons), and 10 quickdraws suffice. Bring cams up to #2 and slings. Highly recommended for alpine line seekers: an unmissable climb.