{"id":20779,"date":"2020-10-05T15:07:44","date_gmt":"2020-10-05T13:07:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2020\/10\/punta-santner-spigolo-nord-via-von-glanvell\/"},"modified":"2025-06-04T10:30:56","modified_gmt":"2025-06-04T08:30:56","slug":"climbing-punta-santner-north-ridge-von-glanvell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2020\/10\/climbing-punta-santner-north-ridge-von-glanvell\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing the north ridge of Punta Santner, Von Glanvell route. Sciliar."},"content":{"rendered":"

The Schlern<\/em> (Sciliar) is undoubtedly an icon of South Tyrol. This plateau massif \u2013 flanked by the spires of Punta Euringer and Punta Santner \u2013 towers above the green pastures of Alpe di Siusi, one of the South Tyrolean Dolomites’ most authentic corners despite nearby ski resorts. Summer through early November, it\u2019s a hiker\u2019s paradise; in winter, families flock to its sunny, tranquil slopes.<\/p>\n

Punta Santner rises above Siusi village: a broad yellow-gray wall over forests and Hauenstein Castle, tapering to a sharp summit ridge. Years ago, a climber from Castelrotto first told me about its\u00a0North Ridge\u00a0(Spigolo Nord<\/em>) \u2013 first climbed in 1904 by Viktor Von Glanvell and Karl Domenigg – with legendary enthusiasm.<\/p>\n

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Punta Santner, North Ridge (Von Glanvell route).<\/em>Ph credits genusslandsuedtirol.it<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

This is a\u00a0major undertaking: 1,200m vertical gain from Hotel Bagni di Razzes. The descent is no stroll \u2013 an endless series of rappels, re-equipped after a 2011 rockfall from Punta Euringer. Mostly frequented by German-speaking locals and solitude-seekers, the Von Glanvell route (max 5.4 YDS) shouldn\u2019t be underestimated: technical climbing time rivals descent time. Stable weather and a dawn start are essential for this long, rewarding journey.<\/p>\n

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Punta Santner, North Ridge. On the initial easy pitches.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

From Bagni di Razzes parking, reach\u00a0Schlernb\u00f6dele Hut<\/em> in 50 minutes (steep trail). Behind it, the faint path to the ridge disappears briefly in tall grass \u2013 a fittingly “earned” approach. Cross two gravel gullies, then traverse woods to the base: a boulder with a bolt and yellow circle marks the start. Rock requires care on the initial 5.2-5.4 YDS pitches (gritty debris). Route-finding is logical, but the wall\u2019s scale can disorient beginners \u2013 belay bolts hide like “needles in a haystack.” Wax stains from Herz Jesu<\/em> fires adorn most ledges (I spotted wax before bolts at the third stance!).<\/p>\n

Gear Notes:<\/strong><\/p>\n