{"id":20776,"date":"2022-10-24T18:00:31","date_gmt":"2022-10-24T16:00:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2022\/10\/sciliar-burgstallkante-arrampicare-spigolo-monte-castello\/"},"modified":"2025-06-04T10:31:31","modified_gmt":"2025-06-04T08:31:31","slug":"sciliar-burgstallkante-climbing-monte-castello","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2022\/10\/sciliar-burgstallkante-climbing-monte-castello\/","title":{"rendered":"Sciliar, Burgstallkante. Climbing the Monte Castello Spur."},"content":{"rendered":"

Lo Sciliar (Schlern) is one of South Tyrol’s most iconic mountains. Beloved by hikers of all ages, it has long attracted a niche community of traditional climbers, primarily German-speaking. Hans Steger and Paula Wiesinger \u2014pioneers of the Dolomites’ vertical scene in the 1920s-30s\u2014 fell so deeply for this mountain and its alpine pastures that they moved here to open one of the region\u2019s first luxury hotels.<\/p>\n

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Burgstallkante, Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.<\/p><\/div>\n

While the most-climbed route on nearby Punta Santner is the 1904\u00a0Glanvell<\/em>\u00a0on its North Ridge<\/a>, Monte Castello\u2019s crown jewel is its\u00a0northeast spur, known as\u00a0Burgstallkante. First ascended in 1922 by Waldner and Wairinger, it offers immensely satisfying climbing: steep moves on superb rock in a wild setting. Mauro Bernardi\u2019s description in his guidebook\u00a0Climbs on Catinaccio<\/em> is precise and reliable. Like the Santner Ridge, it demands a long approach (by modern standards) up a large gully. To reach Burgstallkante\u2019s start, follow this gully briefly before branching left. Traverse it for 30+ minutes\u2014sometimes cairn-marked, with exposed sections\u2014to a clearing left of a massive boulder blocking the channel. Allow\u00a02 hours total\u00a0for the approach.<\/p>\n

The adventure begins immediately: early pitches are easy (3rd\u20134th class YDS), climbed partly roped, partly simul-climbing. Cemented ring anchors mix with bolted stations featuring slings. After 250m, steep climbing begins on exceptional rock peppered with pockets and huecos. Pitons and occasional slings protect harder moves; grassy patches pose little issue. Sustained\u00a05.2\u20135.6 YDS\u00a0climbing delivers tremendous fun.<\/p>\n

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IThe bicycle bell on the route\u2019s crux (5.6 YDS). Burgstallkante<\/em> – Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.<\/p><\/div>\n

What captivated me most? A\u00a0bicycle bell\u00a0(Fahrradklingel<\/em>) mounted on the\u00a0crux move just pitches from the top. A local climber once explained me it was installed by the same person who placed the telephone on Santner Ridge! The crux is a steep overhang on the ridge (5.6 YDS). Holds are good and friendly, but inexperienced climbers may struggle to weight their feet\u2014risking a “spinning pedals” effect. Hence the bell: ring it to signal your belayer to take rope tension!<\/p>\n

The final easy pitch leads directly to summit meadows, perfect for resting amid breathtaking views. A fast, experienced team can cover the\u00a0500m vertical\u00a0from start to finish in\u00a0under 4 hours. Note: I wouldn\u2019t recommend leading this if you\u2019re at your limit grade-wise or lack experience\u2014inefficiency risks significant delays.<\/p>\n

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Burgstallkante exit – Monte Castello Spur. Sciliar.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

On descent, head to\u00a0Rifugio Bolzano (Schlernhaus) or take directly the Gamsteig\u2014a stunning, partly-equipped trail for expert hikers, recently renovated (summer 2022)\u2014down to\u00a0Schlernb\u00f6dele H\u00fctte. There,\u00a0canederli<\/em> (bread dumplings), Spiegeleier<\/em>\u00a0(fried eggs), and\u00a0Kaiserschmarren<\/em>\u00a0(shredded pancake) are divine. With a full belly and a grappa, the hike down to\u00a0Bagni di Razzes\u00a0car park feels blissfully smooth.<\/p>\n\n\t\t