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<\/a>Sommadossi, Monte Colodri. Giovanni on the striking detached blade of pitch 2.<\/p><\/div>\n
A weekend blending classic and modern routes\u2014I think that\u2019s the right way to describe it. On Saturday, Giovanni and I climbed a true Colodri classic: Brunello Sommadossi, opened in 1975 and already considered highly “polished” by the late 80s. A series of athletic cracks and dihedrals deliver thrilling, physical climbing. I\u2019d climbed the ramp dihedral on pitch 1 last year\u2014its extreme polish in several sections is no surprise\u2014so knowing what to expect was a huge advantage. This time, I reached the small grove 50 meters above the start in just minutes, making this burly opening feel almost “painless.” Now, I won\u2019t claim the rest of the route isn\u2019t polished, but in climbing shoes, an experienced eye spots far more footholds, keeping the ascent fun and less slippery. The crux pitch features a vertical, intermittently overhanging cracked slab\u2014grit your teeth, don\u2019t blow the hand or foot placements, but it\u2019s over in just a few meters. Protection is abundant (pitons and ring bolts), with a couple of iron bars for emergency clipping. Sommadossi, Monte Colodri. The stunning dihedral on pitch 6.<\/p><\/div>\n L\u2019Incompiuta plays a different tune\u2014a true masterpiece by Heinz Grill, Ivo Rabanser, and team. Here, cams up to #3 are essential. Opened in 2012, this brilliant line links existing variations with new pitches. The start tests you with a hard slab move beneath a roof. On pitch 2, we opted for the “Groaz” variation (VI) of Via Katia\u2014a gray, nearly abandoned but now-cleaned crack that flows logically with the route\u2019s rhythm and difficulty.<\/p>\n Via L\u2019Incompiuta, Colodri. Antonello on pitch 3.<\/p><\/div>\n From pitch 3 onward, athletic dihedrals and cracks demand commitment, solid technique, and fast gear placement. Footing is sparse; solid jamming skills ease the climb. Rock quality is superb overall, with only short sections requiring extra care. Pitches 3 and 6 may be wet\u2014check conditions from the parking lot.<\/p>\n L’Incompiuta, Colodri.<\/p><\/div>\n Online opinions vary on L\u2019Incompiuta\u2019s difficulty, grades, and time. We all agree it\u2019s well-protectable, so the R4 rating in Diego Filippi\u2019s guidebook feels exaggerated. Some suggest two sets of cams\u2014overkill in my view. One full set up to #3 suffices, but prepare for thoughtful placements: the limestone is often highly sculpted inside the cracks. First-ascent reports<\/a> cite sustained VI+ with VII sections; Rabanser\u2019s description on Bergsteigen.com<\/a> aligns closely. Orme Verticali\u2019s topo felt soft\u2014maybe they had a golden day! Time estimates range from 3\u20134 hours to 6\u20137. Confusing, right?<\/p>\n What I can keep saying is: L\u2019Incompiuta is serious business. Expect sustained, pumpy VI+ climbing. Fixed gear is mostly traditional pitons (artfully placed by Ivo Rabanser & friends), with bolts only at belays. Compared to similar Dolomites routes (e.g., Palfrader dihedral on Monte Specie), it\u2019s harder, more strenuous, and less equipped\u2014though the rock is equally beautiful. Bring 10\u201311 quickdraws, a few slings, cams up to #3, medium size nuts (I rarely carry them, but they\u2019d help here), and a 60m rope. 5\u20136 hours should suffice. Download my L\u2019Incompiuta topo here<\/a><\/p>\n
\nSommadossi can be climbed in 8 pitches. Belays are comfortable, half equipped with bolted rings and half on trees. Pitons and bolts line the route; bold climbers might skip cams entirely except for the penultimate pitch\u2014a beautiful IV-grade cracked dihedral with no fixed gear. Still, I recommend bringing cams up to #2. A single 60m rope is more than enough, along with about 10 quickdraws. A competent team can summit Colodri in under 4 hours.Download my Sommadossi topo here.<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a>