{"id":20754,"date":"2022-11-23T22:52:56","date_gmt":"2022-11-23T21:52:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2022\/11\/traversata-grand-combin\/"},"modified":"2025-06-04T08:53:55","modified_gmt":"2025-06-04T06:53:55","slug":"grand-combin-traverse","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2022\/11\/grand-combin-traverse\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing the Gran Combin full traverse."},"content":{"rendered":"

The Grand Combin\u00a0is one of the 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps. To be precise, three of its summits are on the official list: Combin de Valsorey, Combin de Grafeneire, and Combin de Tsessette. This mountain has Arctic-like dimensions and features, undoubtedly making it one of the wildest major peaks in the Alps. During ski-mountaineering season, its north side is most frequented, where the\u00a0Couloir du Gardien\u00a0represents the most delicate and potentially dangerous section, with seracs looming over the steep ascent slope. In summer, climbers favor the western side. The\u00a0Meitin Ridge\u00a0on Combin de Valsorey is among the classic high-mountain routes. The traverse of all summits, descending toward the Tour de Boussine and Mauvoisin Dam, is a magnificent, long, complex, and complete itinerary that showcases every aspect of this mountain: rock, snow, sharp ridges, an exposed rappel descent, and a long return to civilization. It has it all.<\/p>\n

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Gran Combin traverse, our route. CreditsMap Geo Admin<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n

Mid-September is typically ideal for high-altitude mountaineering, temperatures drop, and conditions improve, even after an exceptional summer like 2022\u2019s. Michele and I had no fixed plans; we simply sought an intense adventure. I\u2019d studied the Grand Combin traverse in the\u00a0excellent Topo Verlag Valais guidebook, imagined it, and felt it was perfect for us. By now, Michele counts among my “victims”\u2014trusted travel companions (calling them “clients” leaves a metallic taste I dislike) with whom I embark on new adventures.<\/p>\n

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Grand Combin traverse. Hiking up to Cabane Valsorey. Combin di Valsorey high on the left.<\/p><\/div>\n

The approach to\u00a0Cabane de Valsorey\u00a0starts just below the Cordonne alpine pasture, a few kilometers from Bourg St Pierre. It\u2019s scenic and not strenuous. The hut at 3,000m takes 3.5 hours to reach \u2014 small but welcoming, a true alpine refuge run by Isabelle and a young assistant. Outside, the panorama is extraordinary: Mont Velan in the foreground and the entire Mont Blanc massif to the west.<\/p>\n

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Traversata del Gran Combin.Verso la Cabane Valsorey, il Combin de Valsorey sullo sfondo.<\/p><\/div>\n

Arriving at the hut by lunchtime is wise\u2014r\u00f6sti\u00a0is a Valais staple. Afternoon rest in the dorm follows; I like scouting the next day\u2019s pre-dawn route. The\u00a0Meitin Ridge\u00a0serves as the warm-up for the Grand Combin traverse. The path to Glacier du Meitin (or what remains of it…) is well-marked, even with reflectors early on. The steep section post-glacier has a clear trail over scree. Straying risks triggering rockfall\u2014better to be among the first or behind a guide if route-finding isn\u2019t your strength.?Reaching\u00a0Col du Meitin\u00a0(3,787m) takes 1\u20131.5 hours, offering partial relief.
\nThe Meitin Ridge, equipped with resin-coated bolts for progression and rappels (where needed), divides into three parts:
\n1. First step (~350m): Stay alert\u2014multiple paths and ledges abound. Easy to get lost in darkness. A short, steep dihedral (Grade III, bolted) marks the first real challenge, followed by delicate rock sections with short pitches.
\n2. Characteristic traverse: Rightward under a large roof, then an easy walk along the crest base to the 3,950m saddle.<\/p>\n

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Traversata del Gran Combin. Il tracciato dell’Arete du Meitin.<\/p><\/div>\n

3. Final step: A traverse leads to the second steep section, climbed via short pitches (watch for loose rock). The ridge then eases\u2014brief crest walking, skirting a gendarme\u2014before summiting\u00a0Combin de Valsorey\u00a0(4,184m).
\nWe took exactly 4 hours from the hut at a relaxed pace, losing minutes\u00a0off-route\u00a0(rare for me on classic routes\u2014proof it\u2019s tricky!). Knowing the path cuts time significantly.<\/p>\n

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Gran Combin Traverse. Arete de Meitin.<\/p><\/div>\n

The rock climb ends here. From Valsorey to\u00a0Combin de Grafeneire<\/b>\u00a0(4,314m), we crossed the glacier\u2014a slight descent followed by gentle terrain manageable with poles. Summit #2 took just over 30 minutes.<\/p>\n

Combin de Tsessette<\/b>\u00a0(4,135m) demanded technical skills again. The snow ridge on\u00a0Aiguille Croissant<\/i>\u00a0was knife-edged, and the descent down\u00a0Mur de la C\u00f4te<\/i>\u00a0was steep. Extra ice screws proved useful (as we found). Beyond the Mur, slopes eased\u2014Tsessette became straightforward, my 42nd 4,000m peak.<\/p>\n

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Grand Combin Traverse. After Mur de la C\u00f4te.<\/i><\/p><\/div>\n

At Tsessette, we were halfway. Awaiting us:\u00a08 exposed rappels<\/b> (re-equipped in 2017 by Verbier guides), with short transfers at points. Experience helps locate anchors. A 50m rope suffices, but watch ends\u2014some rappels are nearly 25m. Cabane de Valsorey has a route sketch; I recreated it here (PDF)<\/span><\/a>.<\/p>\n

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Grand Combin Traverse. Rappelling from Combin de Tsessette.<\/i><\/p><\/div>\n

Next, an easy rocky ridge descent featured exposed downclimbing. We kept crampons on due to snow cover. Finally, the day\u2019s last climb:\u00a0Tour de Boussine<\/b>\u00a0(3,830m). The glacier crossing held crevasses; the final ridge was simple. We summited 10 hours after leaving Valsorey\u2014wind fading at last\u2014and paused.<\/p>\n

Here, the return plan matters:<\/p>\n