{"id":20738,"date":"2024-07-03T20:14:22","date_gmt":"2024-07-03T18:14:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2024\/07\/tre-cime-di-lavaredo-via-cassin-alla-cima-piccolissima\/"},"modified":"2025-06-03T08:56:03","modified_gmt":"2025-06-03T06:56:03","slug":"tre-cime-lavaredo-cassin-cima-piccolissima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2024\/07\/tre-cime-lavaredo-cassin-cima-piccolissima\/","title":{"rendered":"Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbing the Cassin route on Cima Piccolissima."},"content":{"rendered":"

Yesterday must have been the sixth time I\u2019ve climbed the Cassin Route on the Piccolissima in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The first time, many years ago, was a backup plan because the weather wouldn\u2019t have allowed us to climb the real \u201cCassin\u201d route on Cima Ovest.
The East Face of the Piccolissima, seen from the gravel road passing by Rifugio Lavaredo, resembles a beautiful flame\u2014an overhanging yellow shield that looks anything but solid. Maybe that\u2019s also why the Cassin Route never has a queue, unlike the Spigolo Giallo, where strategy (sometimes selfish) and a bit of luck are essential to avoid lingering in the “waiting room.”<\/p>\n

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The classic pic on the exposed traverse of the Cassin route, Cima Piccolissima.<\/p><\/div>\n

I don\u2019t have the route description handy (the Bernardi guide book works), but I think the Cassin on Piccolissima has 12 pitches that flow quickly if you know the line. The first two are a pleasant warm-up, following cracked dihedrals no harder than grade V (5.6). By the third pitch, you\u2019re at the base of the yellow shield, where the real difficulties begin (up to VII- \/ 5.10a in free). The yellow rock is striking, and the exposure grows more intense as you climb. Honestly, I don\u2019t mind the three bolt anchors on these pitches, and neither do my clients or friends, who, upon reaching the belay, crush slings and carabiners before clipping in.
\nThe fifth pitch, just before the traverse, is definitely the crux. After a solid block slightly above the belay (protected by two ring pitons), you face a run-out to another piton with a sling\u2014the challenges never let up. Moving right onto a white slab, marked by a small rockfall from years ago, requires caution on your first repeat (maybe even later, unless done frequently). The sparse pitons are hard to supplement and spaced out. Commitment and a good dose of courage are mandatory. A step back left leads to more solid rock, and once you reach the belay on a comfortable ledge, you breathe a sigh of relief.<\/p>\n

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Luca Vallata, a good friend guide, climbing the key pitch of Spigolo Giallo.I took this pic from the Cassin on Torre Piccolissima.<\/p><\/div>\n

The next pitch is the spectacular traverse left. I always stop and belay my partner midway up the yellow dihedral for photos\u2014the contrast and backdrop of hikers at Forcella Lavaredo are surreal. Climbers dance slowly from right to left here: some take their time, chalking up excessively, others move swiftly. Either way, everyone squeeze butts with all that exposure below. I always snap the same shots, especially the mid-traverse move with a stretched leg reaching for a low hold\u2014it\u2019s the best. What a fantastic pitch! The yellow dihedral is athletic and thrilling, though sadly short-lived.
\nFrom the belay atop the pillar, you enjoy a small and comfy break while watching parties on the Spigolo Giallo. The final pitches, now on gray southern slabs, remain fun and occasionally athletic. The long traverse to the final chimney is pure photo bait. I don\u2019t know why there\u2019s no summit logbook here\u2014I keep forgetting to ask Daniel from the Sesto mountain guides to bring one.
\nThe descent from Cima Piccolissima is quick and easy (just watch for loose rocks on the first rappels down to the saddle with the Frida Route), even with a single 60m rope. Ten rappels land you back at the base.
\nAll in all, a Cassin masterpiece from 1934 – 90 years ago! If you love classic routes, solid VI grade (5.8) climbing, and aren\u2019t fazed by exposure or traverses, all that\u2019s left is to go repeat it. For a smooth ascent, bring a full 60m rope, a small set of friends up to #1, about ten quickdraws, and slings. Start early\u2014not because of crowds on the wall, but to avoid the toll road nightmare!<\/p>\n\n\t\t