{"id":12505,"date":"2017-08-06T22:36:37","date_gmt":"2017-08-06T20:36:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2017\/08\/arrampicate-dolomiti-luglio-campanile-dulfer-gusela-del-nuvolau-primo-terzo-spigolo-tofana-spigolo-iori-alla-fiames-torre-piccola-del-falzarego-cinque-torri\/"},"modified":"2017-08-09T21:49:20","modified_gmt":"2017-08-09T19:49:20","slug":"climbing-dolomites-july-campanile-dulfer-gusela-del-nuvolau-first-third-pillar-tofana-rozes-punta-fiames-south-arete-iori-torre-piccola-del-falzarego-cinque-torri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.albertodegiuli.com\/en\/2017\/08\/climbing-dolomites-july-campanile-dulfer-gusela-del-nuvolau-first-third-pillar-tofana-rozes-punta-fiames-south-arete-iori-torre-piccola-del-falzarego-cinque-torri\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing in the Dolomites in July. Campanile Dulfer, Gusela del Nuvolau, First and Third Pillar of Tofana di Rozes, Punta Fiames Iori South Arete, Torre Piccola del Falzarego and Cinque Torri."},"content":{"rendered":"

It’s been a kind of ritual in the last 3 years meeting Giovanni for climbing in the Dolomites on the first part of July, and every summer we set the bar higher, looking for more challenging classic climbs. Even this year the weather was good, so we managed to climb some very fine routes around Cortina d’Ampezzo. We started our adventures on the Cadini di Misurina, climbing Campanile Dulfer via the classic South Arete. The long approach is not for everybody these days, and we didn’t meet anybody until we got to the Fonda Savio Hut. The Campanile Dulfer South Arete is very beautiful, around grade IV with a short section of V, the final pitches are very exposed and the thrilling rappels require some attention. Torre Piccola di Falzarego South Arete is another classic and very popular route that we climbed during a day with uncertain weather, while the Dallago route on the Gusela del Nuvolau was a good new climb for me as well. A short section of grade V on a yellow steep crack, while the rest is easier around grade IV.<\/p>\n

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Silvia and Giovanni on top of Torre Grande after climbing the Guides Route. Cinque Torri.<\/p><\/div>\n

This year Giovanni’s wife Silvia came to climb with us on the Cinque Torri on a couple days,it actually was her baptism on multi pitch climbs, and we started with and easy one, Torre Quarta Bassa, followed by the English Tower, the Guides Route on Torre Grande and finally the Lusy Tower, so famous for its exposed 35m rappell down an overhanging yellow rock face.
\nIn Tofana we climbed the Third Pillar, a classic route but not so popular as route finding is not really straight forward. Unfortunately we climbed in the fog for almost the whole ascent, which made our journey more epic and dramatic. Once we got to the big cave almost on top of the route (earlier than average timing) that was a relief for Giovanni, who also appreciated the fog climbing the exposed overhang just outside the cave – he couldn’t see the void lying under him.<\/p>\n

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Giovanni climbing the Third Pillar of Tofana di Rozes.<\/p><\/div>\n

The last two climbs we sent they were Punta Fiames South Arete, known as Iori route, a classic climb I like to climb at least once a year and that I use as grade V test piece, and on my birthday we chose the First Pillar of Tofana di Rozes, technically more challenging than the Third Pillar but this is much shorter…so in the end I think these two routes require the same skills.
\nBravo Giovanni (and Silvia of course!), very looking forward to seeing you next year for more adventures!<\/p>\n\n\t\t